Caron Simply Soft Harvest Red (Color A) scrap amount
Caron Simply Soft White (B) scrap amount
Caron Simply Soft Light Country Peach (C) scrap amount

Size H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
Scrap amount of white faux fur material
Small Snowflake button embellishment
(optional) small amount of poly-fill or fiber fill to stuff hat
Stitch marker
Tapestry Needle

For Assembly choose one of the following methods:

super glue
Color coordinated embroidery thread

Approximate finished size: 3 1/4” tall (without loop or beard) x 2 1/2” wide

Abbreviations:

MC = magic circle
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
st = stitch
sk = skip
WS = wrong side
Bobble = Bobble Stitch (see special stitches section below)
sc2tog = single crochet 2 st together (see special stitches section below)

Special Stitches:

Bobble = yo, insert hook into indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through 2 loops on hook (2 loops left on hook), yo, insert hook into same st, yo, pull up a loop, (4 loops on hook), yo and pull through all 4 loops.

sc2tog = (insert hook into next st, yo and pull up a loop) twice, yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Notes about pattern:

• Hat and nose are worked in seamless rounds

Hat (worked in seamless rounds)

Round 1:  With Color A, 6 sc st in MC, place a stitch marker in the 1st sc made.  Do not join with sl st to 1st st after last sc st. (6) Note:  leave a long tail from MC as this will be used for the hanging loop.

Note:  Continue moving up your stitch marker to the 1st st of each round.

Round 2:  1 sc in each st around. (6)

Round 3:  2 sc in 1st st, sc in remaining st. (7)

Round 4 – 16:  repeat round 3. (st count = 20 at the end of round 16) 

Fasten off Color A.

Round 17:  With Color B, TURN, (now working on the WS of hat), ch 3, dc in same st, sl st in next st, *bobble in next st, sl st in next st* repeat between * * to end, sl st to base of 1st st from beginning of round.

Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Knot yarn before pushing needle down through top of hat

To make the loop for hanging, with long tail left from MC, tie a simple sewing knot by inserting needle in crochet fabric to create a loop of yarn, then inserting needle through loop of yarn and pulling tight. This will prevent MC from coming loose.  Push needle down into top of hat, leaving a loop large enough for hanging, knot off again inside hat and weave in end.

Knot yarn before pushing needle into top of hat to create loop for hanging

Nose (worked in seamless rounds)

Round 1:  With Color C, 3 sc st in MC, place a stitch marker in the 1st sc made.  Do not join with sl st to 1st st after last sc st.  (3)

Note:  Continue moving up your stitch marker to the 1st st of each round.

Round 2:  2 sc in each st.  (6)

Round 3:  sc2tog 3 times. Join with sl st to first st. (3). Fasten off.  Pull yarn through last st, sew yarn end through front loop of each of the 3 st, pull tight to close the circle.

Cut faux fur material to size desired for beard approx 2 1/4” wide at top x 2 1/2” long to tip.  Taper cut slightly going towards bottom of beard.  With embroidery thread, sew top of beard to bottom edge of the inside of hat. OR use super glue to attach to hat.

Sew or glue beard to inside bottom edge of hat

With a long length of Color A, sew nose to inside bottom edge of hat in the middle OR use a small dab of super glue to glue to bottom edge of hat on top of beard.  

Sew or glue snowflake button embellishment to hat, if desired.

If you would like the hat to be more filled out, add a small amount of scrap yarn or poly fill to stuff and then sew or glue closed to secure.

• Materials:
• 1.4 oz or 85 yds of Red Heart With Love, Light Grey
• 0.7 oz or 43 yds of Red Heart With Love, Celtic Blue
• 0.2 oz or 12 yds of Red Heart Super Saver, White
• 0.1 oz or 6 yds of Red Heart Super Saver Yarn, Caffe Latte
• 0.1 oz or 6 yds of Red Heart Super Saver Yarn, Charcoal
• Crochet Hook, Size E, 3.5mm
• Polyfil
• Yarn Needle
• Scissors
• 2 Jumbo Popsicle Sticks
• 2 – 3.5 inch long dowel rods (1/4 inch diameter)
• Hot Glue Sticks and Applicator
• Paint (Optional)
• Pom Pom Maker (Optional)

Stitches and Abbreviations

CH – Chain
SC – Single Crochet
SC2TOG – Single Crochet 2 stitches together
BLOSC – Back Loop Only Single Crochet
SLST – Slip Stitch
MC – Magic Circle

Gauge and Size

Gauge – 5SC x 6 Rows = 1 inch
Size – Final Gnome is about 7.5 inches tall.

With Grey.

Row 1: Work 6 SC in a MC. (6)

Row 2: *2SC in the next ST* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. (12)

Row 3: *SC in the next ST, 2SC in the next ST,* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. (18)

Row 4: *SC in the next 2 STs, 2SC in the next ST,* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. (24)

Row 5: *SC in the next 3 STs, 2SC in the next ST,* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. (30)

Row 6: *SC in the next 4 STs, 2SC in the next ST,* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. (36)

Row 7: *SC in the next 5 STs, 2Sc in the next ST,* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. (42)

Row 8: *SC in the next 6 STs, 2SC in the next ST,* repeat from *to* a total of 6 times. (48)

Row 9-20: SC in the next 48 STs. (48)

Row 21: *SC in the next 14 STs, SC2TOG,* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. (45)

Row 22: SC in the next 45 STs. (45)

Row 23: *SC in the next 13 STs, SC2TOG,* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. (42)

Row 24: SC in the next 42 STs. (42)

Row 25: *SC in the next 12 STs, SC2TOG,* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. (39)

Row 26: SC in the next 39 STs. (39)

Row 27: *SC in the next 11 STs, SC2TOG,* repeat from *to* a total of 3 times. (36)

Row 28: SC in the next 36 STs. (36)

Row 29: SLST to the next 2 STs.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Crochet Skiing Gnome Beanie

Note: We will be changing colors every row to create a two-tone hat. Feel free to work the hat all in one color fs you find changing colors difficult.

With Blue CH 18

Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC in the next 13 CH, Change Color to White, SC in next 4 CH. (17)

Row 2: CH1, turn, BLOSC in next 4 STs, Change Color to Blue, BLOSC in last 13 STs.

Row 3: CH1, turn, BLOSC in first 13 STs, Change Color to White, BLOSC in last 4 STs.

Continue repeating rows 2-3 until you have a total of 41 rows. Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch yarn end of the blue color and a 6-inch yarn end of white. Use your yarn ends to sew the first row to the last row worked together.

Then use the blue yarn to gather up the top of the gnome’s beanie. Make a pom-pom out of white and grey yarn and sew it to the top of the beanie.

Arms (Make 2)

With Blue

Row 1: Work 6 SC in a MC. (6)

Row 2-3: SC in the next 6 Sts. (6)

Change to Grey.

Row 4-8: SC in the next 6 Sts. (6)

Fasten off leaving a 10-inch tail to sew the arm to the body.

Nose

With Cafe Latte or a skin tone colored yarn.

Row 1: Work 6 SC in a MC. (6)

Row 2-3: SC in the next 6 STs. (6)

Fasten off leaving a 10 inch tail to sew the nose to the body.

Crochet Gnome Beard (Male Gnome)

CH12 with White

Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from hook and each CH across. Fasten off. (11)

Cut 21  eight-inch strands of yarn for the beard. Group three strands together and attach them to the 7 center single crochet like you would add fringe to a scarf. (See Photo Above)

Before stuffing your gnome, sew your beard on to you gnome in a U shape. Make sure to leave room for the nose and keep the ends close to the edge of the top of the body to be able to hide them with the hat.

If you choose, braid your beard and secure it with a small piece of yarn.

Give your beard a little trim to shape and lightly mist it with some water, style the beard and let it dry that way to hold that shape.

If you wish, you can untwist the yarn in the beard to have more hair-like strands.

The Skis and Ski Poles

Take two jumbo popsicle sticks and paint them a fun color. Glue them to the bottom of your gnome. Ta-Da, Skis!

Ski Pole Piece
With Charcoal colored yarn make a magic circle. Work 9 SC into the magic circle and SLST to the first SC. Before you pull the magic circle tight, slip the end of a 3.5-inch dowel rod into the magic circle. Pull tight and use a little glue to secure the center of the crochet piece you just made. Weave in your ends.

Crochet Skiing Gnome Assembly Instructions

You can use a yarn needle and yarn to sew each piece together in the order listed below or you can hot glue the pieces together (this is what I did) if they are not going to be played with by kids.

1. Stuff gnome body and glue skis to the bottom of the gnome.
2. Sew the beard onto the gnome. The beard will have the crocheted row shaped like a U. Style the beard and trim it. Sew the nose on top of the beard.
3. Sew the arms onto the gnome.
4. Lightly stuff the hat and sew the hat onto the body.
5. Glue the ski poles to the hands of the gnome.
6. Enjoy your gnome!

I truly hope you enjoyed the crochet skiing gnome pattern and will check back for more fun crochet gnome patterns.

Legend:
KA – ring of the amigurumi
r. – row
sbn – single crochet
ssn – column with crochet add
– increase (two loops from one column)
ub – decrease (two columns together)
ss – connecting column
(…) x6 – repeat specified in brackets 6 times
(12 st.) – the number of columns at the end of the row

Bottom (2 parts)
1p. – 6 sbn in spacecraft (6 st.)
2p.- (1 prib) x6 (12 st.)
3r.- (1 sbn, 1pb) x6 (18 st.)
4p.- ( 2 sc, 1 prib) x6 (24 st.)
5 rubles – 1 sc, (1 prib, 3 sc) x5, 1 prib, 2 sc (30 st.)
6 rubles – (4 sc, 1 prib) x6 (36 st.)
7 rubles – (2 sc, 1 prib) x12 (48 st.)
9 r.- 3 sc, (1 prib, 7 sc) x5, 1 prib, 4 sc (54 st.)
10 r.- (8 sc , 1 arr) x6 (60 st.)
11 rubles – 4 sbn, (1 arr, 9 sbn) x5, 1 arr, 5 sbn (66 st.)
Cut the thread.
We knit one more such detail, we do not cut the thread. We will continue to work with this thread.

We cut out a circle with a diameter like our finished bottom from a plastic lid, thick cardboard or thin foam.
We fold all the details: the first part of the bottom with the wrong side up, put the blank from the seal on it, cover with the second part of the bottom with the
wrong side inside.
Now we connect in a circle without increments of 66 sbn, simultaneously capturing the loops of both parts.
Turn the work and knit 1 row with connecting posts. Rotate work. We knit the body.

Body
1-13 r. – 66 sbn (66 st.)
14 r. – weknit the handles (distribute the loops so that the seam – the junction of the loops – is in front in the center, so we will hide the flaws under the beard) 13 sb, 6 sb tie the hand ( to do this, attach a part of the hand and knit, grabbing the loop of the hand and the working loop), 27 sb, 6 sb hand, 14 sb (66 st.)
15 rubles – 66 sc (66 st.)
16 rubles – (9 sc, 1 dec) x6 (60 st.)
17 rubles – 60 sc (60 st.)
18 rubles – (8 sc, 1 dec) x6 (54 st.)
19-33 rubles – 54 sc (54 st.)
Tie in a circle with connecting posts.

Hands (2 parts)
Knit with red yarn.
1p. – 6 sbn in KA (6 tbsp.)
2p.- (1 pribl) x6 (12 tbsp.)
3-4 r.- 12 sbn (12 tbsp.)
5 r.- 3 ssn in one loop, 11 sbn (12 st.)
6 r.- (1 ub) x2, 10 sc (12 st.)
7-8 r.- 12 sc (12 st.)
9 r.- 12 cc (12 st.)
Change the thread to gray.
We knit the first row for the back wall of the loop, the rest, as usual.
10-16 p. – 12 sbn (12 st.)
Stuff the part a little, only the edge of the hand, where the mitten is.
Fold the part and connect both edges 6 sbn.

Hoc
1p. – 6 sbn in spacecraft (6 st.)
2p – (1 arr X6 (12 st.)
3r . – (1 sbn, 1 arr .) X6 (18 st.)
4-5 r. – 18 sbn (18 tbsp.)
6p . – (1 sbn, 1 ub) x6 (12 tbsp.)
Cut off the thread, leave the end for sewing.

Hat
1p. – 6 sbn in spacecraft (6 tbsp.)
2p. (1 arr, 1 sc) x3 (9 st.)
3-4 rubles – 9 sc (9 st.)
5 rubles – (1 arr, 2 sc) x3 (12 st.)
6 rubles – 12 sc (12 st.) )
7 rubles – (1 prib, 3 sc) x3 (15 st.)
8 r.- 15 sc (15 st.)
9 r.- (1 prib, 4 sc) x3 (18 st.)
10 r.- 18 sc (18 st.)
11 rubles – (1 prib, 5 sc) x3 (21 st.)
12 r.- 21 sc (21 st.)
13 r.- (1 prib, 6 sc) x3 (24 st.)
14 r.- 24 sc (24 st.)
15 rubles – (1 prib, 7 sc) x3 (27 st.) 24 rubles – 39 sc (39 st.) 25 rubles – (1 prib, 12 sc) x3 (42 st.) 26 rubles – 42 sc (42 st.) 27 r.- (1 arr, 13 sc) x3 (45 st.) 28 r.- 45 sc (45 st.) 29 r.- (1 arr, 14 sc) x3 (48 st.)
16 rubles – 27 sc (27 st.)
17 rubles – (1 prib, 8 sc) x3 (30 st.)
18 rubles – 30 sc (30 st.)
19 rubles – (1 prib, 9 sc) x3 (33 st.)
20 r . – 33 sc (33 st.)
21 r . – (1 prib, 10 sc) x3 (36 st.)
22 rubles – 36 sc (36 st.)
23 rubles – (1 prib, 11 sc) x3 (39 st.) . 43-44 r – 63 sc (63 st.) ) 45 rubles – (1 arr, 20 sc) x3 (66 st.)

30 r – 48 sbn (48 st.)
31 r . – (1 arr, 15 sbn) x3 ( 51 st.)
32 rubles – 51 sc (51 st.)
33 rubles – (1 arr, 16 sc) x3 (54 st.)
34-35 rubles – 54 sc (54 st.)
36 rubles – (1 arr, 17 sc) x3 (57 st.)
37-38 rubles – 57 sc (57 st.)
39 rubles – (1 prib, 18 sc) x3 (60 st.)
40-41 rubles – 60 sc (60 st.)
42 rubles – (1 arr, 19 sc) x3 (63 st.)

46-47 rubles – 66 sbn (66 st.) The
hat is ready.

Beard We
make a beard from white yarn.
We cut pieces of thread 8-10 cm (it is better to cut off the excess later).

Along the line of attaching the handles, we begin to stretch the threads for each loop. Fold the thread in half, thread the hook into the loop, grab the thread at the fold, stretch, making a loop, tie it like an air loop, tighten the loop.

We do this for 3-4 rows, with each row leaving 2 loops on the sides. If your threads are thick, you can do with 2-3 rows.

Next, trim the beard straight or pointed towards the center.

Raise the beard up, glue the part of the body under the beard in the form of a triangle with glue and glue each row of threads, forming a beard. So we glue each row, but very lightly and airy, so that the beard comes out lush.

We decorate the eyes, sew on the nose, tighten the lace.

The gnome is ready! 

Difficulty

Intermediate

• Materials:
• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm)
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Tapestry Needle
• Stuffing
• Chopstick, dowel, something similar to help with stuffing
• Pins
• Pet slicker brush (optional – If brushing beard)
• Yarnspirations Simply Soft (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 315 yds/288 m, 6 oz/170 g), Color (A) Bone, used approx. 12 yds/ 11 m, Color (B) Green, used approx. 125 yds/ 114 m, Color (C) Off White, used approx. 37 yds/ 34 m, Color (D) Pumpkin, used approx. 15 yds/ 14 m
• Yarnspirations Simply Soft Heathers (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 250 yds/228 m, 5 oz/141 g), Color (E) Grey Heather, used approx. 38 yds/ 35 m

Gauge

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) the first 8 rounds of the body equal 2.75 inches in diameter.

Finished Measurements

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) in the sitting position without the hat measures approximately 4.5 inches. Sitting with the hat measures approximately 8 inches (not including the legs).

Design Notes

• Pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
• A size E/4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook is recommended. That said, the ultimate desired result is to achieve a tight crochet fabric that when stuffed will not allow the stuffing to show through.
• The pattern is written in rounds. When working in rounds it is helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and move it up at the start of each additional round.
• At the end of each round the number of stitches for completion is noted in parentheses.
• Further design notes and tips will be provided throughout the pattern to help aid in construction.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• BLO – back loop only
• ch – Chain
• Crab st – Crab st (also called the reverse single crochet)
• FLO – front loop only
• hdc – half double crochet
• Rnd(s) – Round(s)
• sc – Single crochet
• sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (use the invisible decrease when working in the Rnd)
• sl st – Slip stitch
• st(s) – Stitch(s)
• magic circle/adjustable ring
• yo – yarn over
• [ ] – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed

Nose

Make 1

Using Color (A) – Bone

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnds 4-5: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2Rnds)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Sl st, fasten off.
• Firmly stuff and shape the nose. Set aside for later.

Body

Make 1

Using Color (B) – Green

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (48sts)
• Rnds 9-15: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 7Rnds)

>Design Note: The next several rounds (Rnds 16-37) create stripes for the gnomes shirt. There is no need to cut the yarn at the end of each row. Drop and pick up colors as needed to make the color changes.

>Design Tip: To help make the stripes line up more evenly by reducing jogging with each color change, work the first stitch of each round as a sl st (counting as a stitch) instead of a sc. Note however, that while this technique decreases jogging, because the color changes are made every row, a diagonal line will be noticeable. It’s a personal preference which is more desirable. Do note that with this design the hat will cover much of the body.

Alternate the next several rounds between Color (C) – Off White and Color (E) – Grey Heather, starting with Color (C)

• Rnds 16-21: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 6Rnds)

In the next round the nose is added seamlessly to the body. Continue working the stripes as well.

Rnd 22: Sc in the next 22sts, now join the nose to the body: With the working loop still on the hook, insert hook into any st on the nose from the wrong side to the right side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops, continue to join the nose and body sts together for the next 3sts, sc in the next 22sts. (48sts)

• Rnd 23: Sc in the next 22sts, now join the nose to the body: [With the working loop still on the hook, insert hook into the next st on the nose from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through both loops] 4 times, sc in the next 22sts. (48sts)
• Rnds 24-31: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 8Rnds)

Firmly stuff and shape and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 32: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (40sts)
• Rnd 33: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (32sts)
• Rnd 34: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 35: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 8 times. (16sts)
• Rnd 36: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 4 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 37: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times. (8sts)
• Sl st, fasten off leaving a long tail for closing the hole.
• Close the hole using a tapestry needle.

>Design Tip: When closing the hole use only the front loops and move around the circle from stitch to stitch until the hole closes nicely.

Hat

Make 1

Using Color (B) – Green

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (9sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 4sts. (10sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in next st. (11sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in the next 5 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 5sts. (12sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Weave in the starting tail. It may be necessary to put the tail on a tapestry needle and pull it to the right side of the work to weave it in. 

• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 7 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 7sts. (16sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in the next 15sts, 2sc in next st. (17sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 8sts. (18sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (21sts)
• Rnd 12: Sc in the next 10 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 10sts. (22sts)
• Rnd 13: Sc in the next 21sts, 2sc in next st. (23sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 11sts. (24sts)
• Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 16: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (33sts)
• Rnd 17: Sc in the next 16sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 16sts. (34sts)
• Rnd 18: Sc in the next 33sts, 2sc in next st. (35sts)
• Rnd 19: Sc in the next 17sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 17sts. (36sts)
• Rnd 20: [Sc in the next 5 sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (45sts)
• Rnd 22: Sc in the next 22sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 22sts. (46sts)
• Rnd 23: Sc in the next 45sts, 2sc in next st. (47sts)
• Rnd 24: Sc in the next 23sts, 2sc in next st, sc in the next 23sts. (48sts)
• Rnd 25: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (54sts)
• Rnd 26: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (60sts)
• Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (66sts)
• Rnds 28-33: Sc in each st around. (66sts for 6Rnds)
• Rnd 34: Crab stitch (reverse sc) in each st around. (66sts)
• Fasten off leaving a tail to join the beginning and the end of the crab stitch. Weave in the end.

Shoes

Make 2

Using Color (B) – Green

• Ch 10
• Rnd 1: Working in the back bar of the chain: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next 7sts, 3sc in the last st (corner rounded), working down the other side of the ch: sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the last st. (20sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st. (24sts)
• Rnd 3: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, hdc in the next 2sts, 2hdc in the next st, hdc in the next 2sts, 2hdc in the next st, hdc in the next 2sts, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st. (28sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next st, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2hdc in the next st, hdc in the next 2sts, 2hdc in the next st, hdc in the next 4sts, 2hdc in the next st, hdc in the next 2sts, 2hdc in the next st, sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st, sc in the next st. (34sts)
• Rnd 5: In BLO: Sc in each st around. (34sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. (34sts)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 9sts, [sc2tog] 8 times, sc in the next 9sts. (26sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 9sts, [sc2tog] 4 times, sc in the next 9sts. (22sts)
• Rnd 9: Sc in the next 7sts, hdc in the next 2sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, hdc in the next 2sts, sc in the next 7sts. (20sts)
• Rnd 10: Sc in the next 7sts, [sc2tog] 3 times, sc in the next 7sts. (17sts)
• Stuff and shape the shoe and continue to do so until completed but leave the back loops of Rnd 12 exposed for future use.
• Rnd 11: Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog, [sc in the next st, sc2tog] 4 times, sc in the next st. (12sts)
• Rnd 12: In FLO: sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Sl st, fasten off and weave in the end.

Leg

Make 2

The legs are worked in stripes. Like the body, the first stitch of each row can be made a sl st if desired to help with jogging. There is no need to cut the yarn at the end of each row. Drop and pick up colors as needed to make the color changes. Leave the legs unstuffed.

Using Color (C) – Off White

• Rnd 1: Working in the back loops of Rnd 12 of the shoe, fasten on to the st at the center back of the shoe with a standing sc and sc in each st around. (12sts)

Switch to Color (E) – Grey Heather

• Rnd 2: Sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Add more stuffing to reach the top of the shoe but do not stuff the leg.

Alternate the remaining rounds between Color (C) Off White and Color (E) – Grey Heather, starting with Color (C)

• Rnds 3-20: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 18 Rnds)
• Cut the Color (C) – Off White yarn and push the tail into the leg.
• Press the tube flat so the top edges line up, ch1, and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the leg to the body.

Hand and Arm

Make 2

Using Color (A) – Bone

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (15sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (12sts)
• Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (12sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the hand. Leave the remaining part of the arm unstuffed.

The rest of the arm is worked in stripes. Like the body, the first stitch of each row can be made a sl st if desired to help with jogging. There is no need to cut the yarn at the end of each row. Drop and pick up colors as needed to make the color changes.

Alternate the remaining rounds between Color (C) Off White and Color (E) – Grey Heather, starting with Color (C)

• Rnds 6-17: Sc in each st around. (12sts for 12 Rnds)
• Cut the Color (C) – Off White yarn and push the tail into the arm.
• Press the tube flat so the top edges line up, ch1, and sc the two edges together across the top. (6sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the arm to the body.

Beard

Using Color (D) Pumpkin

• Cut 60, 6 inch lengths of yarn (more if a fuller beard is desired, longer if a longer beard is desired).

• Holding two strands together, loop yarn lengths around the stitches onto the body. Placement: All loops are placed around a Color (E) – Grey Heather Stripe. On Rnd 21, place 4 loops directly under the nose and three loops to each side of these loops for a total of 10 loops. On Rnd 23, place 4 loops on each side of the nose for a total of 8 loops. The first loops are placed flush with the nose on either side and then move outward. On Rnd 25, place 4 loops above the nose and 4 loops to each side of these loops for a total of 12 loops. (30 total loops)
• Trim if desired. Unravel or brush yarn strands if desired.

Assembly

• Pin the legs side by side about two rows in front of the magic circle on the base of the body. Using the tail on the leg attach the leg to the body along the top edge of the leg and then along each side of the leg for a couple rows so the top bit of the leg remains flush against the bottom of the body.
• Pin the arms to the body; placed at the vertical midline of the body and sewn diagonally over Rnd 16-20 with the joining seam on the underside of the arm. Stitch along the top.
• Invisibly tack the hat onto the body in several places to make sure that it doesn’t fall off.

• MATERIALS:
• Acrylic yarn, DK/Worsted Weight: Red, Brown, White and Peach Colors
• Fuzz-A-Fleece Yarn, White; or equivalent. approximately 2 yard
• Styrofoam Polystyrene Ball, 2.5″ Diameter
• Styrofoam Polystyrene Ball, 0.75″ Diameter
• Jingle Bell
• Polyester fiberfill
• Snowflakes
• Wood Slice (As A Stand)

TOOLS

• 3mm hook
• Tapestry Needle
• Hot Glue Gun

ABBREVIATIONS

sc: single crochet
inc: 2sc, increase

GNOME HAT

With Red Yarn:
Round 1: sc 3 in magic ring. {3}
Round 2: [inc] around. {6}
Round 3: sc around. {6}
Round 4: [sc, inc] around. {9}
Round 5: sc around. {9}
Round 6: [sc, inc, sc] around. {12}
Round 7: sc around. {12}
Round 8: [sc3, inc] around. {15}
Round 9: sc around. {15}
Round 10: [sc2, inc, sc2] around. {18}
Round 11: sc around. {18}
Round 12: [sc5, inc] around. {21}
Round 13: sc around. {21}
Round 14: [sc3, inc, sc3] around. {24}
Round 15: sc around. {24}
Round 16: [sc7, inc] around. {27}
Round 17: sc around. {27}
Round 18: [sc4, inc, sc4] around. {30}
Round 19: sc around. {30}
Round 20: [sc9, inc] around. {33}
Round 21: sc around. {33}
Round 22: [sc5, inc, sc5] around. {36}
Round 23: sc around. {36}
Round 24: [sc11, inc] around. {39}
Round 25: sc around. {39}
Round 26: [sc6, inc, sc6] around. {42}
Round 27: sc around. {42}
Round 28: [sc13, inc] around. {45}
Round 29: sc around. {45}
Round 30: [sc7, inc, sc7] around. {48}
Round 31: sc around. {48}
Round 32: [sc15, inc] around. {51}
Round 33: sc around. {51}
Round 34: [sc8, inc, sc8] around. {54}
Round 35: sc around. {54}
Round 36: [sc17, inc] around. {57}
Round 37: sc around. {57}
Round 38: [sc9, inc, sc9] around. {60}
Round 39: sc around. {60}
Round 40: [sc19, inc] around. {63}
Round 41: sc around. {63}
Round 42: [sc10, inc, sc10] around. {66}
Round 43: sc around. {66}
Fasten and weave in ends

GNOME BODY

Begin with brown yarn. This pattern is made by joining two leg pieces together.
To make the first leg piece:
Round 1: Sc 8 in magic ring. {8}
Round 2: [inc] around. {16}
Round 3-5: Sc around. {16}
Fasten off and leave a long end for sewing.

To make the second leg piece:
Round 1: Sc 8 in magic ring. {8}
Round 2: [inc] around. {16}
Round 3-5: Sc around. {16}
Round 6: This will be where the two pieces join. Sc in the next 8 sts, then continues to sc in the first leg piece’s sts. When you reach back to the second leg piece, sc in the remaining sts {32}. (you may use excess yarn from the first piece to tighten any gaps between the two pieces)

Change yarn to white:
Round 7: Sc around. {32}

Change yarn to red:
Round 8 – 13: Sc around. {32}
Fasten off and leave a long end.

Stuff body firmly. Sew the top opening closed flat using the long end.
Don’t cut the long end. Reserve it for sewing the jingle bell.

DETAILS ON HOW TO ASSEMBLE THE AMIGURUMI GNOME

1. Wrap the bigger styrofoam ball with white fuzzy yarn; this is the head of the gnome.
   Wrap the smaller ball with peach yarn; this is the nose of the gnome.
   Glue the ends and part of the yarns with hot glue while wrapping.
   
   First, wrap the yarn on a styrofoam ball by gluing the yarn end on the ball with a dot of hot glue. Wind or wrap the yarn around the ball and apply glue intermittently, so the yarn stays in place. As you wind the yarn, be sure to twist the ball around to distribute the yarn evenly.
   Without styrofoam balls? You may also wind a ball of yarn without a styrofoam ball. It is just like you wind your stashed yarn into a ball. However, make sure they are tightly wound and won’t come loose. As you wind, glue the yarn intermittently, so the yarn stays in place.

2.Crochet the Red Hat, Body, and the Snowflake motif. Gather jingle bell and tapestry needle with a short length of red yarn.
The hat should be slightly bigger than the head (together with the nose). If your hat is smaller, you probably need to add another few crochet rounds to make it bigger.

3.Tie a Dangling jingle bell on the body by bringing the yarn to the middle top and sew a dangling jingle bell.

4.To assemble the gnome, glue the nose to the head with a hot glue gun.

Then glue the hat to the head. You may stuff the hat with some polyfill; this will give a better shape to the hat.
Squeeze about 2″ length of hot glue inside and near the edge of the hat.

Insert less than half of the head into the hat and glue the back of the head to the hat.
This is how it looks like after gluing the hat to the back of the head. Pull the hat to cover the nose a little and glue it on.
Followed by gluing the sides until the hat is securely “sit” on the head.

Glue the snowflake embellishment onto the hat. This is my famous snowflake crochet pattern that you can crochet with white lace thread.

Next, glue the body to the bottom center of the head. If the wrapped yarn at the head is floating in this area, squeeze some hot glue to adhere the yarn to the styrofoam before gluing the body to that area.

The Christmas gnome is completed. You may tie a string to the tip of the hat to make a hanging ornament.