Materials:
1. Threads for hand knitting LOTOS PNK them. Kirov in three colors: milk, red and pink;
2. Hook number 2;
3. Black beads or half beads for the eyes;
4. Holofiber as a filler;

Legend:
v.p. – air loop
sbn – single crochet add
– increase
kill – decrease
The total number of loopsis indicatedin parentheses at the end of each row.

BODY
1.6 sbn in spacecraft
2. 6 arr (12)
3. (1 sbn, arr) x6 (18)
4. (2 sbn, arr) x6 (24)
5. (3 sbn, arr) x6 (30)
6. (4 sbn, arr) x6 (36)
7. (5 sbn, arr) x6 (42)
8. (6 sbn, arr) x6 (48)
9. (7 sbn, arr) x6 (54)
10- 13. 54 PRS
14. In this row we will knit a heart. Knit 11 sbn in milk color, with a red thread we knit 1 sbn, 42 sbn with a milk color (54)
15.10 sbn milk color, 3 sbn red, 41 sbn milk color (54)
16.9 sbn milk color., 6 sbn red color, 39 sbn milk color. (54)
17.8 sbn milk color., 8 sbn red color., 38 milk color. (54)
18-19. 7 sbn milk color., 10 sbn red color., 37 milk color. (54)
20. 7 PRS milk color., 5 PRS red color., 1 PRS milk color., 5 PRS red color., 36 PRS milk color. (54)
21.7 PRS dairy color (48)
22.8 sbn milk color, 1 sbn red color, 5 sbn milk color, 1 sbn red color, 33 sbn milk color. (48)
Then we knit everything with a milky color
23-24. 48 sbn
25. (6 sbn, ub) x6 (42)
26-28. 42 sbn
29. (5 sbn, ub) x6 (36)
30-31 42 sbn
32. (4 sbn, ub) x6 (30)
33-35. 30 sbn
36. (3 sbn, ub) x6 (24)
37-51. 24 SBN
52. Knit 8 SBN, turn knitting
53. 1v.p. skip sbn, 13 sbn rotate knitting
54.1 vp skip sbn, 12 sbn turn knitting
55.1 vp. skip sbn, 11 sbn turn knitting
56.1 vp. skip sc, 10 sc. Finish knitting, leave the long end of the thread for sewing on the head. We fill the body with holofiber while knitting.

HEAD
start knit with yarn faces red
1. 6sbn in spacecraft
2. Arr 6 (12)
3 (1 sc, Arr) x 6 (18)
4 (2 sc, Arr) x 6 (24)
5 (3 sc, arr) x6 (30)
6.30sbn
7. (4 sbn, arr) x6 (36)
8.36 sbn
9. (5 sbn, arr) x6 (42)
10-12. 42 sbn
Change the color of the thread to a milky color
13-15. 42 sbn
16. (5 sbn, ub) x6 (36)
17-25. 36 sc
26. (4 sc, dec) x6 (30)
27.30 sc
28. (3 sc, dec) x6 (24)
29. (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
30. (1 sc, dec) х6 (12)
31. Decreases before closing. Finish knitting, cut off the thread, hide the ends of the thread.

EARS
1. 6 sbn in spacecraft
2. (1 sbn, arr) x3 (9)
3.9 sbn
4. (2 sbn, arr) x3 (12)
5. 12 sbn
6. (3 sbn, arr) x3 (15 )
7-8. 15 sbn
9. (4 sbn, arr) x3 (18)
10-11. 18 sbn
12. (5 sbn, arr) x3 (21)
13-14. 21 sc
Fold in half and connect sc. Finish knitting, cut off the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

HORNS
We begin to knit with a thread of red
1. 6 sbn in KA
2. 6 prib (12)
3. (1 sb, prib) x6 (18)
4-6. 18 sbn
7. (1 sbn, ub) x6 (12)
8. (1 sbn, ub) x4 (8)
Change the thread to a milky thread
9-15. 8 sbn
Finish knitting, cut off the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

LEGS
We begin to knit with a thread of red color
1.6 sbn in KA
2. 6 approx
3. (1 sbn, arr) x6 (18)
4. (2 sbn, arr) x6 (24)
5. (3 sbn, arr) x6 ( 30)
6-8. 30 sc
9. (3 sc, dec) x6 (24)
10. (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
11. (1 sc, dec) x6 (12)
12. Now we will knit rows with stripes. Change the color to the main one and knit 2 rows of 12 sbn each.
14.12 sbn red
15.12 sbn pink
16-17. 12 sbn milky
Repeat rows 14-17 and so on up to 38 rows. Fold in half and knit sbn.
We finish knitting, cut off the thread, leave the tail for sewing.

HANDLES
1 6 sbn in KA
2. 6 approx
3. (1 sbn, arr) x6 (18)
4. (2 sbn, arr) x6 (24)
5. (3 sbn, arr) x6 (30)
6-8. 30 sc
9. (3 sc, dec) x6 (24)
10. (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
11. (1 sc, dec) x6 (12)
12. Now we will knit rows with stripes. Change the color to the main one and knit 2 rows of 12sc.
14.12 sbn red
15.12 sbn pink
16-17. 12 sbn milky
Repeat rows 14-17 to 31 rows.
32. Fold in half and knit sbn, finish knitting, cut off the thread, leave the tail for sewing.

Now we sew all the details. Amigurumi giraffe is ready!

Abbreviations

sc: Single crochet
inc: Increase
dec: Decrease
tr: Treble/Triple crochet
TRinc: Work 2 tr sts intothe same st.
dc: Double crochet
hdc: Half double crochet
sl-st: Slip stitch
ch: Chain
st/sts: stitch/stitches
FLO: Front loop only.
BLO: Back loop only.
BL: Bobble Stitch: (Yarn over insert your hook into the st and pull up a loop.Yarn over again and pull through 2 loops) repeat the steps in the same st until you have a total of 5 loops on your hook.Yarn over and pull through all 5 loops at once.
Reverse single crochet: Ch 1, working from left to right, insert your hook into the next st,turn hook to the left side, grab yarn and pull through. There are now 2 loops on your hook. Draw up a loop, bring yarn over the hook again and draw this loop through both loops.
(…)- x times: Repeat the instructions between parantheses x times.
(…): Reprensents the number of sts you should have at the end of the round.
K: Knit
SI: Slip
P: Purl

Head

1. 6 sc in MR 6 sc
2. inc x 6 12 sc
3. 1sc, 1 inc x 6 18 sc
4. 1sc, inc, 1 sc x 6. 24 sc
5. 3 sc, 1 inc x 6 30 sc
6. 2 sc, inc, 2 sc x 6 36 sc
7. inc, 5 sc x 6 42 sc
8. 5 sc, inc, 1 sc x 6 48 sc
9. 3 sc, inc, 4 sc x 6 54 sc
10. 2 sc, inc, 6 sc x 6. 60 sc
11- 13. sc around 60 sc
14. inc, 9 sc, x 6 66 sc
15- 18. sc around 66 sc
19. 5 sc, inc, 5 sc x 6 72 sc
20- 24. sc around 72 sc
25. inc, 11 sc x 6 80 sc
26. 6 sc, dec, 5sc x 6 72 sc
27. dec, 10 sc x 6 66 sc
28. 9 sc, dec x 6 60 sc
29. 2 sc, dec, 6 sc x 6 54 sc
30. 3 sc, dec, 4 sc x 6 48 sc
31. 5 sc, dec, 1 sc x 6 42 sc
32. dec, 5 sc x 6 36 sc
33. 2 sc, dec, 2 sc x 6 30 sc
34. 3 sc, 1 dec x 6 24 sc
35. 1 sc, dec, 1 sc 6 18 sc
36. 1 sc, 1 dec x 6 12 sc
37. dec x 6 6 sc

• Stuff the head firmly.
• Place the safety eyes (9mm) on round 19/20 with 10 sc apart (8 sc after attaching)
• Sew the muzzle 1 sc under the eyes and sew the nose
• Sew the eyebrows on round 14/16
• Sew the head to the body on round 34 counting the head.

The size of Franky, will depend on the yarn and hook size you use This pattern is an intermediate pattern
I used “bambu sakura Kartopu” 100 gr.
My hook size is 2,2 mm

Ears

1. 4 sc in MR 4 sc
2. 1 sc, 1 inc x 2 6sc
3. 2 sc, 1 inc x 2 8sc
4. 3 sc, 1 inc x 2 10 sc
5. 4 sc, 1 inc x 2 12 sc
6. 5 sc, 1 inc x 2 14 sc
7. 6 sc, 1 inc x 2 16 sc
8. sc around 16 sc
9. 7 sc, 1 inc x 2 18 sc
10. sc around 18 sc
11.7 sc, 1 decx 2 16 sc
12. 6 sc, 1 dec x 2 14 sc
13. 5 sc, 1 dec x 2 12 sc

• fold the ears and sew the sides together and attach them on round 10 to the head

Horns

Start with brown yarn:
1. 6sc in MR 6sc
2. inc x 6 12 sc
3. 1 sc, 1 inc x 6 18 sc
4. sc around 18 sc
5. 1 sc, 1 dec x 6 12 sc
Change your yarn color
6. 1 sc, 1 dec x 4 8sc
7- 8. sc around 8 sc
• Sew the horns on round 3/6

Muzzle

1. Ch 8
2. Inc in second from your hook, 5 sc, 3inc, 5 sc, inc 16 sc
3. Inc x 2, 5 sc, inc x 3, 6sc 21 sc
4. 1 sc, 1 inc x 2, 6 sc, inc, 1 sc, 1 inc x 2, 6 sc 26 sc
5. 2 sc, 1 inc, x 2, 7 sc, inc, 2 sc, 1 inc x 2, 6 sc 31 sc
6- 7. sc around 31sc
• Sew the muzzle on round 21/27

Body

1. 6 scinMR 6 sc
2. inc x 6 12 sc
3. 1 sc, 1 inc x 6 18 sc
4. 1 sc, inc, 1 sc x 6 24 sc
5. 3 sc, 1 inc x 6 30 sc
6. 2 sc, inc, 2 sc x 6 36 sc
7. inc, 5 sc x 6 42 sc
8. 5 sc, inc, 1 sc x 6 48 sc
9. 3 sc, inc, 4 sc x 6 54 sc
10. 2 sc, inc, 6 sc x 6 60 sc
11-15. sc around 60 sc
16. 2 sc, dec, 6 sc x 6 54 sc
17. sc around 54 sc
18. 3 sc, dec, 4 sc x 6 48 sc
19. sc around 48 sc
20. 5 sc, dec, 1 sc x 6 42 sc
21. sc around 42 sc
22. dec, 5 sc x 6 36 sc
23-24. sc around 36 sc
25. 2 sc, dec, 2 sc x 6 30 sc
26. sc around 30 sc
27. 3 sc, 1 dec x 6 24 sc
28. sc around 24 sc
29. 6 sc, 1 dec x 3 21 sc
30- 44. sc around 21 sc

• Stuff the body firmly
• Place the dots as you like
• Sew the head to the body
• Actually if you don’t ad a stick in the body, it will move.
• I like it, but if you don’t, you can ad a drinking straw in it.

Arms & Legs

Start with brown yam:
1. 6sc in MR 6sc
2. inc x 6 12 sc
3. 1 sc, 1 inc 18 sc
4. sc around 18 sc
5. in BLO 18 sc
6. 1 sc, 1 dec 12 sc
7. sc around 12 sc
Change your yarn color
8–23. sc around 12 sc
24. dec x 6 6sc

• Make 4 of them
• sew them with the moveable stitch to the body on round 10 (legs) round (6 arms)

Dots

1. 6sc in MR 6 sc
2. inc x 6 12 sc
3. sc around 12 sc

• Make 4 of them
• Sew them to the body, place them how you like

Tail

1. 6 sc in MR 6sc
2. – 16. sc around 6 sc
• Finish the tail and ad some brown yarn at the end of it
• Sew the tail to the body on round 8/10

Scarf

1. Cast on 8 ch
2. SI, K/P
3.–80. SI, K/P
4. Finish your work and make 2 pompons. Sew them to the ends of the scarf.

Materials:
• cotton yarn or cotton / acrylic (Alize Cotton Gold, YarnArt Jeans, Vita Lira, etc.);
• eyes for toys (safe – with fixing from the inside of the part);
• Synthesis or other suitable material for packing;
• a wooden ring with a diameter of 55 mm;
• a rattle (a container with beads or special accessories).

Instruments:
• hook number 2;
• scissors;
• tweezers or packing clamps;
• Needle.

Legend:
• Вп – air loop
• ss – connecting bar
• sbn – column without crochet
• ub. – decrease
• arr. – an increase

Tie the ring:
Type on the thread about 13 in. Try on the ring. The harness should not be too tight to be able to turn the ring under it, but it should not hang too. We close the chain in a ring around the wooden base and begin to knit spirally bunches without a crochet until we tie the whole base. As you knit, rotate the knitting around the base. When you come to the end, align the entire canvas and sew the ends of the strap. Thread the knot and put it in the linen.

Muffle:
Again, dial on the thread vn, this time around 16 (try on the knotted ring). Close in the ring and make a lift loop. You need to knit this part with cc and bn in each row. We knit this way 18 rows. At the end of the last row, change the thread color on the other, we fill the tails into posts. We knit the last ss, stretch the thread and restore the edge of the part (cut the thread to a sufficient length), then fill it with the wrong side. We attach the thread of the same color to the other side of the muff, and we also tie it and decorate it. The total should be 20 rows. We unfold the muff with the seam down, on the inner side of the ring.

Handles: 2 parts in a spiral without insertion and ss
1) 2 in, 6 sb in the first loop (6) or the ring amigurumi
2) aprox6 (12)
3) (1, app) x6 (18)
4) 1, arr., (2, arr.) Х5, 1 (24)
5-6) 2 rows (24)
7) (2, уб.) Х6 (18)
8-9) 2 rows (18)
10) (1, уб.) Х6 (12)
Fold in half and connect the halves with 3 sbn, knot, cut the long thread for sewing. Handles we sew to the seventh row of a muff from each side, we tie a string with a knot and hide it.

Head: spirally absent and ss
1) 2 in, 6 sb in the first loop (6) or the ring amigurumi
2) aprox6 (12)
3) (1, app) x6 (18)
4) 1, arr., (2, arr.) Х5, 1 (24)
5) (3, app) x6 (30)
6) 2, arr., (4, arr.) Х5, 2 (36)
7) (5, app) x6 (42)
8) 3, prib., (6, arr.) X6 (48)
9) (7, ap) x6 (54)
10) 4, arr., (8, arr.) Х5, 4 (60)
11-18) 8 rows (60), the eyes are inserted after 14 rows at a distance of 14 sb from each other
19) 4, уб., (8, уб.) Х5, 4 (54)
20) (7, уб.) Х6 (48)
21) 3, уб., (6, уб.) Х5, 3 (42)
22) (5, уб.) Х6 (36)
23) 2, уб., (4, уб.) Х5, 2 (30)
24) (3, уб.) Х6 (24), here you can put a rattle in the head
25) 1, уб., (2, уб.) Х5, 1 (18)
26) (1, уб.) Х6 (12), сс, cut and thread the long thread for sewing, restore the edge.

Ears: spirally
1) 2 in, 6 sb in the first loop (6) or in the ring amigurumi
2) 1 row (6)
3) aprox6 (12)
4) (1, app) x6 (18)
5) 1, arr., (2, arr.) Х5, 1 (24)
6-7) 2 rows (24)
8) 1, уб., (2, уб.) Х5, 1 (18)
9) 1 row (18)
10) Уб.х12 (12), сс, cut the long thread for sewing and fill it.

Horns: spirally
1) 2 in, 6 sb in the first loop (6) or in the ring amigurumi
2) aprox6 (12)
3) 1 row (12)
4) уб.х6 (6)
5-6) 2 rows (6), ss, cut the long thread for sewing and fill it.

Muzzle: spiral
1) 4 in, beginning with the second from the hook loop: 2 sb, 3 sbn in the extreme loop, on the other side 1 sb, 2 sb in the extreme loop (8)
2) prib., 2 sbn, pr.x3, 2 sb, prix.x2 (14)
3) 1 сбн, приб., 2 сбн, приб., 1 сбн, приб., 1 сбн, приб., 2 сбн, приб., 1 сбн, приб. (20), 2 ss, cut the long thread for sewing and fill it.

Bow:
8 in, then we knit with turning ten rows. In the end, we make 1 in, and we tie a rectangle around the perimeter (in the corners of 3 sb). We transfer the yarns to the middle of the wide part, pull out a very long thread (about a meter), restore the edge. Then add a rectangle and fix the folds with a needle, then wrap the butterfly in the middle. We fasten the thread with several stitches, pull out the loop and knit about 14 inches (try on the neck of the toy). We tighten the thread with a knot, wrap a chain around the neck of the toy and sew it to the bow on the other side.

If you enjoy making amigurumi, here I share this easy and free amigurumi pattern for you for free. Your kids will love these toys.

Materials
Yarn Art Jeans yarn: yellow #35, brown #40, white #62
1.5-2.0 mm crochet hook
6 mm safety eyes
Yarn needle and scissors
Black embroidery floss for eye brows and nostrils
Fiberfill

Abbreviations:
R – row
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
dec – decrease (2 sc together)
[…] – number of stitches you should have at the end of the row
(…) – repeat whatever is between the brackets the given number of times

Head
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [18]
R 4: (2 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [24]
R 5: (3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [30]
R 6: (4 sc, inc) repeat 6 times [36]
R 7-14: 36 sc (8 rows)

Insert safety eyes between R 10 and R 11 at the distance of 5 st from each other.
R 15: (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
R 16: (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [24]
R 17: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
R 18: (1 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Ears (make 2)
R 1: 5 sc in magic ring [5]
R 2: 2 sc, inc, 2 sc [6]
R 3: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 4-8: 12 sc (5 rows)
Do not stuff with fiberfill.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Fold the ear edges together and sew them together

Horns (make 2)
With brown yarn:
R 1: 8 sc in magic ring [8]
R 2-3: 8 sc (2 rows)
Change to yellow yarn:

R 4: 3 sc, dec, 3 sc [7]
R 5-7: 7 sc (3 rows)
Stuff the brown part of the horn.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Arms (make 2)
With brown yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (1 sc, inc) repeat 3 times [9]
R 3: 9 sc

Change to yellow yarn:
R 4-10: 9 sc (7 rows)
Stuff the brown part of the arm.
Fold the top opening flat and 3 sc through both sides.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Muzzle
With white yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]
R 3: (3 sc, inc) repeat 3 times [15]
R 4: 15 sc
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Legs and body (one piece)

Legs (make 2)
With brown yarn:
R 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
R 2: 1 sc, 5 inc [11]
R 3: 11 sc

Change to yellow yarn:
R 4-7: 11 sc (4 rows)
Fasten off.
Crochet the second leg, do not fasten off.

Make 1 ch on the second leg and join with the first leg.

Body
R 1: 11 sc on the first leg, inc in 1 ch, 11 sc on the second leg, inc in 1 ch (opposite side) [26]
R 2-7: 26 sc (6 rows)
R 8: make dec on the sides of body [24]
R 9-11: 24 sc (3 rows)
R 12: (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [18]
R 13: (1 sc, dec) repeat 6 times [12]
R 14-16: 12 sc (3 rows)
Fasten off.

Spots (make 3)
With brown yarn:
R 1: 8 sc in magic ring [8]
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Tail
With yellow yarn:
Make 7 ch.
From the 2nd ch from hook: 6 sl st.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Make a small tassel using brown yarn and sew to the yellow part of the tail.
Cut the brown yarn into six pieces 5-6 cm long

Assembly
Sew horns on the top of the head.
Sew ears to the head
Sew muzzle to the head. Put some fiberfill inside the muzzle before you finish
Sew arms on R 12 of the body
Sew spots to the body
Embroider eye brows and nostrils with black floss

The Inspiration

Several years ago I decided to make a series of little animals that I now lovingly refer to as my Small Animal Collection. I made a long list of all the animals I could think of and began designing them.

Some of them are finished and I have shared them here on the blog, like my bears, horse, unicorn, elephant, and turkey. Others just need their pattern written out and pictures taken to be shared.

Sadly, others sit waiting partly finished in my Work(s) In Progress (WIP) box, while yet still, some continue to wait on the list for their opportunity to be brought to life.

The purpose of this series is to have a project that can be made relatively quickly should the need arise for a last minute gift. (I shared a little more of my reasoning in the Small Animal Collection: Bears post if you’d like to know more.)

Looking around me recently I’ve noticed several individuals that will soon be having babies so I decided to be ahead of the game for once and looked at what I already had going on in my WIP box. Handmade gifts are my favorite to give, but they take time.

There sat my yellow and brown giraffe. He was fully crocheted, stuck together with pins. Just waiting for assembly. Perfect!

Per my usual process I reworked the pattern to ensure that I was still happy with the design and now I’m sharing it with you! I hope that you enjoy adding the Giraffe to your own Small Animal Collection!

The Yarn

I had previously made my first yellow and brown giraffe using Red Heart Super Saver Yarn some time ago, so I made the other two friends with it as well.

I love that Red Heart Super Saver comes in a wide variety of colors and is more accessible locally (at least to me) than some other yarns. It is an acrylic yarn and is a bit rougher in texture than even some other comparable acrylic yarns, but for this amigurumi purpose, the texture doesn’t detour me.

I’ve found that the trick to using an acrylic yarn and making professional looking amigurumi for me, is ensuring that I’m using a hook that is smaller than the recommended size (I use a Size E/4 (3.5mm)) so that the stitches are tight and not leaving holes where stuffing will show through.

That said, I do think that our giraffe friend would work up well in another brand or type of acrylic or cotton yarn. I always encourage using up what’s in your stash and buying more if needed. Well, if needed, or wanted, or on sale….you get the idea, buy the yarn, use what you want and enjoy looking and squishing all the rest until inspiration strikes!

The Pattern

Difficulty

Intermediate

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size E/4 (3.5 mm) 
• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Pins
• Safety eyes, 9 mm (optional)
• Pet Slicker Brush (optional, for brushing tail)
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing small parts
• Red Heart Super Saver (worsted 4-Medium, 100% acrylic, 364 yds/333 m, 7 oz/198 g):
  • Yellow & Brown Giraffe: Color (A) Cornmeal, less than 1 skein, Color (B) Cafe Latte, less than 1 skein, Color (C) Black, scrap piece, Color (D) Soft White, scrap piece.
  • White & Purple Giraffe: Color (A) Aran, less than 1 skein, Color (B) Pale Plum, less than 1 skein, Color (C) Black, scrap piece, Color (D) Soft White, scrap piece.
  • Blue on Blue Giraffe: Color (A) Light Periwinkle, less than 1 skein, Color (B) Windsor Blue, less than 1 skein, Color (C) Black, scrap piece, Color (D) Soft White, scrap piece.

Gauge

Gauge is not essential to this project, but tension should be maintained.

Finished Measurements

Using hook size E/4 (3.5 mm) from the base to the top of the horns, measurement is approximately 7.5 inches (19 cm) tall.

Design Notes

• This pattern is written using US crochet terminology. I chose to use a size E crochet hook. That said, the ultimate desired result is to achieve a tight crochet fabric that when stuffed will not allow the stuffing show through. If a different sized hook works better for you, then by all means, use it! Do note, however, that if you change the hook size or the type of yarn you are using, that this will have an effect on the size and look of your finished item.
• This pattern is written in rounds, except for the spots. It will be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round and to move it up as you start each additional round.
• At the end of each round, I will note in parenthesis how many stitches you should have once completed.
• One skein of Color A and Color B is noted in the materials, but you will only be using a portion of them. You can get several giraffes out of one skein!

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• bo – bobble (See Special Stitches below)
• ch – Chain
• Rnd(s) – Round(s)
• Rows – Rows
• sc – Single crochet
• sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)
• sl st – Slip stitch
• st(s) – Stitch(s)
• [ ] – Work instructions between brackets as many times as directed
• magic circle/adjustable ring

Special Stitches

Bobble (bo): In this pattern, we will be using the 3dcbo (three double crochet bobble). Essentially it’s 3 half finished double crochets all in the same stitch that are joined at the end as one stitch, or a shortened version of a regular bobble stitch. And because that is all sorts of confusing, here are some directions! You create the bobble as follows:

With the original single loop on your hook from your previous stitch(es)

1. Yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch
2. Yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook)
3. Yarn over and pull through two of the loops
4. Stop here! (two loops on your hook). If you were doing a full double crochet you would yarn over again and pull it through the final two loops to finish the dc, but with a bobble you stop halfway, leaving the extra loop on the hook. One of the legs completed.

Ok, now repeat steps 1-4, two more times, inserting the hook into the same stitch that you just worked into. Also, remember that each time you repeat the sequence that you should have one more loop added to your hook.
Now, yarn over and pull through all four of the loops on your hook. This closes your bobble stitch. Congratulations, you just made a bobble!

>Design Note: When making bobbles some patterns will have you make a chain after you have made the bobble to secure them even more. I DO NOT have you make this chain in the pattern, simply make your next stitch as directed in the pattern.

Let’s Make Our Giraffe!

Head

Make 1

Using Color B

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next sc] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in each st around (18sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 2sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnd 6: Sc in each st around (24sts)
• Rnd 7: Sc in the next 7sc, 2sc in the next sc, bo, sc in the next 6sc, bo,
  2sc in the next sc, sc in the next 7sc (26sts)
• Rnd 8: Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog, sc in the next 8sts (24sts)

Switch to Color A

• Rnd 9:  Sc in each st around (24sts)
• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 2sc, sc2tog] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 11: Sc in each st around (18sts)
• Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 2sc, 2sc in next st] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 3sc, 2sc in next st] 6 times (30sts)
• Rnds 14-17: Sc in each st around (30sts for 4 rounds)
• Rnd 18: [Sc in the next 3sc, sc2tog] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnd 19:  Sc in each st around (24sts)

If you’re using safety eyes now would be a good time to add them. Play around a bit and decide what you think looks best for placement. I put mine between Rnd 13 and Rnd 14 about 5sts apart.

At this point, you should also begin to firmly stuff your head and continue to do so right up to the very end of closing it off.

• Rnd 20: [Sc in the next 2sc, sc2tog] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 21:  Sc in each st around (18sts)
• Rnd 22: [Sc in the next sc, sc2tog] 6 times (12sts)
• Rnd 23: [Sc in the next sc, sc2tog] 4 times (8sts)
• Sl st. Fasten off. Add more stuffing. Close hole using a tapestry needle

> Design Tip: I think hole closes more nicely if you close it with your tapestry needle, working in the front loops only and work with your needle from the inside of the hole out in each stitch around until the hole is completely closed. Tie off. Bury your yarn end and cut off any excess.

Body

The body will be worked from the base up towards the neck.
Using Color A

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (30sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sc, 2sc in the next sc] 6 times (36sts)
• Rnd 7-12: Sc in each st around (36sts for 6 rounds)
• Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 4sc, sc2tog] 6 times (30sts)
• Rnd 14: Sc in each st around (30sts)
• Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 3sc, sc2tog] 6 times (24sts)
• Rnds 16-17: Sc in each st around (24sts for 2 rounds)
• Rnd 18: [Sc in the next 2sc, sc2tog] 6 times (18sts)

Stuff the body firmly and continue to stuff and shape as you go.

• Rnd 19-21: Sc in each st around (18sts for 3 rounds)
• Rnd 22: [Sc in the next sc, sc2tog] 6 times (12sts)
• Rnds 23-29: Sc in each st around (12sts for 7 rounds)
• Sl st. Fasten off. Leave a tail for attaching the head to the body.

Arms

Make 2

Using Color B

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
• Rnds 3-5: Sc in each st around (12sts for 3 rounds)

Switch to Color A

• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next sc, sc2tog] 4 times (8sts)

Begin stuffing around round 7 or 8 and continue to do so as you work. I left the top couple rows unstuffed.

• Rnds 7-20: Sc in each st around (8sts for 14 rounds)
• Sl st the top edges together (4sts)
• Fasten off. Leave a tail for attaching the arms to the body.

Legs

Make 2

Using Color B

• Rnd 1: 6sc in adjustable (magic) circle (6sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from hook (6sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next st] 6 times (18sts)
• Rnds 4-6: Sc in each st around (18sts for 3 rounds)

Switch to Color A

• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 4sc, sc2tog] 3 times (15sts)
• Rnd 8-9: Sc in each st around (15sts for 2 rounds)
• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 5sc, sc2tog] 2 times, sc the last st (13sts)
• Rnd 11-14: Sc in each st around (13sts for 4 rounds)
• Fasten off. Leave a tail long enough to attach the leg to the body.

Firmly stuff the leg.

Horns

Make 2

Using Color B

• Rnd 1: 4sc in adjustable (magic) circle (4sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 4sc in 2nd chain from hook (4sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (8sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next st] 4 times (12sts)
• Rnd 4: Sc in each st around (12sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next sc, sc2tog] 4 times (8sts)

Stuff the horn firmly and continue to stuff and shape as you go.

• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 2 times, [sc] 2 times (6sts)

Switch to color A

• Rnd 7-9: Sc in each st around (6sts for 3 rounds)

Ears

• Rnd 1: 4sc in adjustable (magic) circle (4sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 4sc in 2nd chain from hook (4sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next sc, 2sc in next st] 2 times (6sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 2sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (8sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 3sc, 2sc in the next sc] 2 times (10sts)
• Rnds 5-6: Sc in each st around (10sts for 2 rounds)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 3sc, sc2tog] 2 times (8sts)
• Sl st, fasten off, leave a tail for sewing the ear to the head. Don’t stuff.

Tail

Make 1

Using Color A

• Rnd 1: 4sc in adjustable (magic) circle (4sts)
• Rnd 1 alternative: If you don’t know how to/do not like using an adjustable circle you can ch2 and then 4sc in 2nd chain from hook (4sts)
• Rnd 2: Sc in next sc, 2sc in next st, [sc] 2 times (5sts)
• Rnds 3-14: Sc in each st around (5sts for 12 rounds)
• Sl st, fasten off, leave a tail for sewing the ear to the head. Don’t stuff.

Tuft on the Tail

Using Color B

The tuft on the tail is made by holding 2 lengths of yarn approximately 6 inches (15cm) in length together and looping them through at the very end of the tail. Repeat this for a total of three times. Pull each yarn strand to ensure that it’s taught and snug against the tail. Brush with pet slicker brush or separate individual yarns strands by hand, if desired.

>Design Tip: I made the tuft on the tail as the very last thing when assembling and stitching my giraffe together. Doing it this way I was able to use leftover yarn tails for the tuft rather than cutting extra pieces.

Spots

The spots are created in turned rows.

Use Color B for all spots

>Design Note: I will note below the number of spots that I used and how I placed them, but the reality is that each giraffe will be a bit different. Add as many or few spots as you would like.

Spot 1

Make 3

• Ch5
• Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st across, turn (4sts)
• Row 2: Ch1, sc2tog, sc, leave the last st unworked, turn (2sts)
• Row 3: Ch1, sc2tog (1st)
• Fasten off, leave tail to attach to the body. Weave in the 1st tail.

Spot 2

Make 2

• Ch4
• Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st across, turn (3sts)
• Row 2: Ch1, sc in each st across, turn (3sts)
• Row 3: Ch1, sc2tog, leave the last 2sts unworked, turn (1st)
• Row 4: Ch1, sc (1st)
  Fasten off, leave tail to attach to the body. Weave in the 1st tail.

Spot 3

Make 2

• Ch2
• Row 1: 2sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st across, turn (2sts)
• Row 2: Ch1, [2 sc in the next st] 2 times, turn (4sts)
• Row 3: Ch1, [sc] 3 times, leave the last st unworked, turn (3sts)
• Row 4: Ch1, sc2tog, sc (2sts)
• Row 5: Ch1, sc, leave the last st unworked (1st)
• Fasten off, leave tail to attach to the body. Weave in the 1st tail.

Spot 4

Make 2

• Ch3
• Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st across, turn (2sts)
• Row 2: Ch1, sc in the 1st st, 2sc in the next, turn (3sts)
• Row 3: Ch1, 2sc in the 1st st, sc, 2sc in the last st, turn (5sts)
• Row 4: Ch1, sc2tog, sc, leave the last 2sts unworked, turn (2sts)
• Row 5: Ch1, sc in each st across (2sts)
• Fasten off, leave tail to attach to the body. Weave in the 1st tail.

Assembly

Pin all your pieces together until you have the desired placement and then stitch securely in place with your tapestry needle.

>Design Tip: Remember to add more stuffing right before you finish closing up the attachment for the neck, legs, and horns. When you attach one piece to another it leaves a small gap that otherwise would not have any stuffing in it. Adding stuffing right up to the very end makes a piece feel more sturdy and looks more professional.

>Design Note: With the arms, I attached them in the back first along the very top slip stitched edge and then as I came around to the front I stitched them about three rows down from the top slip stitched row. This is just my preference in how I wanted the arms to lay. Experiment with what you think looks best!